This morning dawned the same as every other day that we’ve been here: overcast and warm, which, as always, quickly turned sunny and humid. What better day to walk along the ocean? The parks are lush and alive with families, couples, people walking their trendy dogs. Yet, there is an unmistakeable police presence–especially, ironically enough–in El Parque de Amor (Love Park). Can’t let love get out of hand.
I walked about two miles along the ocean, which is some several hundred feet above the water really on a cliff, so the beach is but a temptation. Clumps of surfers bob up and down; Watching, I know the waves here could kill me. I watched one guy paddle out for a solid 10 minutes. After that kind of exertion, you have to choose your wave very carefully.
My destination was Larcomar, a bustling, upscale outdoor mall with boutiques, a movie theater, and restaurants overlooking the ocean–a Peruvian teenager’s dream. I fled. On the walk back, I must have passed a dozen vendors on bikes peddling helado, Peru’s version of the ice cream truck. Lucuma is a popular flavor–a local fruit that in ice cream tastes like maple syrup. High rises line the oceanfront, their architecture stuck in the 60s. Like many of the homes here, they have security guards posted by the front door.
After the walk in the hot sun (sorry, East Coasters), I crashed, resting up for a gastronomique feast at lunch, an indulgence I’d been building up to. A kind host at El Senorio de Sulco provided an English version of their extensive menu filled with Peruvian specialties that almost always include corn, beef, fish, potatoes, and rice. I ordered a lamb shank (I can hear Jodi cracking up) in a sweet, cinnamony sauce with a mashed green corn side (I could liken it to baby food, but it tasted really good), colored with red peppers and scallions. I took a picture when nobody was looking. It pained me to skip dessert.
Came back to the hotel and crashed again, read, slept, and learned more words by watching Grey’s Anatomy (I know I will hear about this forever, given my previous opposition to the show, but it was all in the name of education), before Kathleen and Margo got me for dinner. We revisited the empenada and pizza place from last week, carefully counting out our last soles.
Now, to bed.
Trendy dogs??? Very cool. Do they have Goldens there? My coworker, Beverly is excited about your Grey’s Anatomy experience!
Finally a day for yourself and trendy dogs…what is a trendy dog in Lima…I fear it might be associated with the police. I just saw The Lives of Others and could not help thinking of it and that state as I read your post. Of course, the reasons are different (at least I hope so), but the same kind of fear that strangles the spontaneous seems awfully close. So…after 10 minutes, did the surfer find a wave…like what happened to him. Happy ice cream, kids, slices of pizza and dwindling solas. Should we send…never mind. The trip to California was short and wonderful best. a
I bet there are no trendy dogs that look like Riley. We did lots of walking yesterday because it was BEAUTIFUL. (I am not jealous of your hot and humid weather. I am jealous of the surfers though.) I’m going to start making handouts to answer everyone’s questions about him. I get tired of explaining what he is.
You will NEVER live down the Grey’s Anatomy watching. I will NEVER let you forget it. But now you can discuss it, in detail, with Helena.
Jaquista,
I think I had a dream about us surfing, or a memory of that rush (the rush of falling off, for me, before spraining my ankle). Anyway, my point is this: imagine doing it in those Peruvian waves! Glad you’re not attempting it though. We want you back whole, (which reminds me to tell you to be careful with those solo oceanside walks too, police presence notwithstanding). I had another dream that you came back bidder and stronger-meaty, almost. (What’s with me and the dreams? You’ll be wondering, is it a product of my third eye meditation tape, or just the usual psychic calisthenics?) Quien sabe. FYI and to clarify for the blogosphere: I didn’t mess up on my taxes.
Nancy (I’ve forgotten what it means already),
~Jodi
Jaquista,
I think I had a dream about us surfing, or a memory of that rush (the rush of falling off, for me, before spraining my ankle). Anyway, my point is this: imagine doing it in those Peruvian waves! Glad you’re not attempting it though. We want you back whole, (which reminds me to tell you to be careful with those solo oceanside walks too, police presence notwithstanding). I had another dream that you came back bigger and stronger-meaty, almost. (What’s with me and the dreams? You’ll be wondering, is it a product of my third eye meditation tape, or just the usual psychic calisthenics?) Quien sabe. FYI and to clarify for the blogosphere: I didn’t mess up on my taxes.
Nancy (I’ve forgotten what it means already),
~Jodi
My post #4 had a misspelling, so I corrected it and re-sent and now can’t erase the original. Just lettin’ ya know my process…So much for my tech progress…
(Yikes…my full name is on these posts!)
Cheri,
I saw a Golden yesterday. The rest are little poodles and Pomeranians. The group went on a tour yesterday to Pachamac where they spotted hairless dogs that are supposedly good for asthmatics. Um, OK.
Anthony,
Yes, please send money ASAP. Heh. I was able to charge my one extravagant meal (well, $25), so I think I’ll survive till Friday. The grocery store sucked me in with all the enticingly foreign snacks…
Kim,
Glad you’re finally feeling better. Riley must be thrilled to see the outside world again. And look, I did not have to enjoy Grey’s Anatomy while watching, but I almost did. Of course, my Super Sweet 16 could be enjoyable in Spanish. Well, not really.
Jodi,
I’m thrilled that the bank will not be foreclosing on your condo so soon! It’s quite possible I’ll come home beafier. The meals here are much larger. Lunch is a two-hour affair and is the main meal, and it always includes a fruit juice, appetizer, main dish, and dessert. Yea. Dinner is generally big too, so I’m often averaging two desserts a day. Well, I guess that’s not unlike home…
Look what I found while researching potential Riley skin problems – the Peruvian Hairless dog, your trendy dog – http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peruvian_Hairless_Dog
Hi There:
Let’s see “I have – a broken washer and TV, I like- both of them and I am -buying new ones”. I am almost as smart as your little kids because I can say all three in English without your excellant help.
Love your blog but can’t wait to hear all about the trip, when you get home-only 4 days to go-yeah!!
Weather here is great-in the 70′s all week, just in case you want a stop over and some good home cooking.
Take care,
Love,
Mom
Kim,
Yeah, he’s cute, huh?
Mom,
Very good. You get an A. (All the kids want grades and little notes, so there you go.)